Capitol Reef, in south-central Utah, is a park we typically visit as part of a loop trip that includes Grand Canyon (North Rim), Zion, and Bryce on our way to Canyonlands and Arches National Parks. The chief attractions are geological but there is also enough history and wildlife to pique your interest.
Tectonic action about 65 million years ago uplifted the Colorado Plateau creating the Waterpocket Fold with its tilted and eroded red cliffs, spires, arches, and canyons. From elevated places you can clearly see the way layers of sedimentary rock have been lifted and bent or folded in what looks like gracefully winding ocean waves. The "Capitol" part of the name is associated with the huge Navajo sandstone dome that is said to resemble the US Capitol. Early travelers found the Waterpocket Fold to be a barrier to their passage the way a barrier reef obstructs passage at sea.
The people of the Fremont Culture, who lived there from about 600 to 1300 AD, left petroglyphs and other artifacts. The area was occupied by a series of indigenous people for thousands of years before that. Mormon pioneers arrived in the 1800s and were encouraged to stay by the availability of water from the Fremont River to irrigate their crops and the shade of cottonwoods, willow, and ash.The area gets only about 8 inches of rain a year, much of it coming so quickly that it causes flash floods. Rainwater collects in bowl-like depressions in eroded rock (waterpockets) that attract wildlife such as bighorn sheep and bobcats. Summer temperatures rise to the 90s during the day but dip into the 50s at night. In the desert southwest, this passes for a mild climate. Mormons planted extensive orchards of about 3,000 trees--apple, pear, peach, plum, apricot and cherry--from which visitors can still sample for free and buy at nominal prices.
Utah Route 24 follows the Fremont River east-west through the park and connects with Scenic Drive that dead ends at Capitol Gorge to the south. Those of you who are not all that enthusiastic about the active outdoor adventure associated with hundreds of miles of hiking trails will likely find an auto tour quite satisfactory. I hope these pictures encourage you to visit.
Capitol Reef can be enjoyed right from the road. Notice the way the cliffs of red shale are tilted back as a result of tectonic action.
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The 13 ft. x 16.5 ft. Elijah Behunin cabin was built in 1882. Mom, Dad and the two youngest kids slept inside. The other six slept out. (Elijah must have experienced a shortage of rocks for construction.)
Orchards at Fruita.
The Gifford Homestead was renovated and refurnished by the NPS as a cultural demonstration site.
The Fremont River has made the area habitable for thousands of years.
Park campsites are spacious. Shade keeps them cool in summer, too.
